Insulation is rated in terms of
thermal resistance, called R-value, which indicates the resistance to heat
flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness.
The R-value of thermal insulation depends on the type of material, its
thickness, and density.
*Well-insulated attics, crawl spaces, storage areas, and
other enclosed cavities should be ventilated to prevent excess moisture
build-up.
**For new construction, slab on grade insulation should be
installed to the extent required by building codes, or greater.
Precautions before you begin
These do-it-yourself
instructions cover installation of batts and blankets, loose-fill or
poured-in materials, rigid boards, and reflective insulations. Before
beginning the work, read and observe the following precautions:
- Wear clothing adequate
to protect against skin contact and irritation. A long-sleeved
shirt with collar and cuffs buttoned, gloves, hat, glasses, and
disposable dust respirator are advisable in all do-it-yourself
insulation projects. Also, read the label and follow all the
manufacturer's directions.
- Do not cover or
hand-pack insulation around bare stove pipes, electrical fixtures,
motors, or any heat-producing equipment such as recessed lighting
fixtures. Electrical fire-safety codes prohibit the installation
of thermal insulation within three inches of a recessed fixture
enclosure, wiring compartment, or ballast, or above the fixture so
that it will trap heat and prevent free circulation of air, unless the
fixture is identified by label as suitable for insulation to be in
direct contact with the fixture. THIS IS FOR FIRE SAFETY.
Do not cover attic
vents with insulation. Proper
ventilation, especially in attics, must be maintained to avoid
overheating in summer and moisture build-up all year long.
How do I install my insulation?
Attic
Installing batts and rolls in attics is fairly easy, but doing it right
is very important. On unfinished attic floors, work from the perimeter
toward the attic door. The vapor retarder needs to be installed with the
facing placed down toward the ceiling gypsum board. Fit the
insulation between the joists and be sure to insulate the trap or access
door. Although the area of the door is small, an uninsulated attic door
will reduce energy savings substantially.
Walls
On walls, begin at the top and work down. Place the vapor retarder
towards the lived-in side. Fit the insulation between the wood frame
studs, cut off the excess length where necessary, and secure the
insulation by stapling the flanges of the vapor retarder according to
the manufacturer's instructions. Cut the batt carefully to fit around
obstructions with no gaps. Don't compress the insulation to fit behind
pipes or wires. Instead cut to the middle of the batt's thickness so
you have a flap under the wire and one over the wire. If you make
any holes in the vapor retarder, use clear packaging tape to seal them.
The kraft paper or standard foil vapor retarder
facings on many blanket insulation products must be covered with gypsum
or interior paneling because of fire considerations.
Basement Walls
When a fiberglass blanket is used to insulate the inside of basement
walls, it is necessary to attach wood furring strips to the walls by
nailing or bonding; or to build an interior stud-wall assembly on which
the interior finish can be attached after the insulation is installed.
The cavity created by the added framing should be thick enough for the
desired insulation R-value.
The kraft paper or standard foil vapor retarder
facings on many blanket insulation products must be covered with gypsum
or interior paneling because of fire considerations.
Basement Ceiling
When batts or rolls are used overhead in the basement, fit the
insulation between the beams or joists and push it up against the floor
overhead as securely as possible without excessive compaction of the
insulation. The insulation can be held in place with wire holders. You
will also need to insulate any ducts or pipes running through this
space, otherwise the pipes could freeze and burst during cold weather.
If this insulation will be exposed, you will need to use an unfaced
insulation.
Crawlspace
When a fiberglass blanket is used to insulate the walls of an
unventilated crawlspace, it is sometimes necessary to attach wood
furring strips to the walls by nailing or bonding. The insulation can
then be stapled or tacked into place. Alternatively, the insulation can
be fastened to the sill plate and draped down the wall. Because the
insulation will be exposed, be sure to use an unfaced product. If you
live in a very cold region, you should continue the insulation over the
soil for about two feet on top of a necessary ground vapor retarder such
as a 6mil plastic.
For more information, please stop into one of our
15 locations and an associate will be happy to assist you. Good
luck!
