Preparation...

Use a floor scraper to remove any debris from the sub floor that
cannot be easily wiped free (i.e., old adhesive, residue, etc.)  with a
broom or cleaning solution.  Clean the subfloor of grease, paint, or
anything that would inhibit adhesive or thinset bonding.  Patch any
cracks and level the subfloor before beginning tile installation.  Make
sure the subfloor is sound and not "spongy" which could eventually
crack the tile and grout.

1. Measure and mark the center point
 of two opposite walls.

2. Snap a chalk line between these two
 points to get a center line.  Repeat this
 between the other two walls so you have
 two lines that cross in the center of the
room.  Check that the intersection is square and adjust if necessary
before snapping second line.

3. Lay a row of loose tile along one line, from the center point to the wall. 
If the space left between the last tile and wall is less than half a tile wide, move the other center line one-half tile closer to the other wall and snap a new chalk line.  Repeat this along your other center line.  This will insure wide, even tiles around the perimeter of the room.

4. Remove any moulding and doors, cut door bottoms and jambs with an Undercut Saw or Jamb Saw.  Reattach moulding and doors after job is completed and grout is fully dried.

5. Begin your installation along these lines, working from the center out, one quarter section at a time.  (Remember to leave yourself a way out of the room without stepping on the newly set tiles.)  All the outside edge tile should be cut last and laid at one time (leave a 1/4" space around the perimeter for expansion that would later be covered by moulding.

Installation...

Applying the Adhesive
Depending on the adhesive and type of tile that is being used, use the adhesive manufacturers recommendation for the correct trowel notch size.  Hold the trowel at a 45˚ angle to the wall or floor (see illustration).  Apply adhesive evenly.  The trowel should give you proper thickness and coverage.  Caution:  Apply no more than twenty five square feet at a time.  Some adhesives dry faster than others so use the directions from the adhesive to be sure.

Setting Each Tile
Set each "whole" tile with a slight twisting motion and press firmly into place (do not slide in).  A Suction Cup can be used to help position larger tiles.
For Floor Tiles
To make sure tiles are firmly set, place a flat board across the surface and tap with a Rubber Mallet.  Do not walk on the floor after it has been tiled.  Place a piece of plywood on the floor if you must walk on it until adhesive is fully set according to directions.

Using Tile Spacers
1. Place the first tile into position on the setting line and put a spacer in vertically at each corner.

2. Continue setting the next tile alongside, with its corners against the previous spacers and repeat this procedure.  The Spacers should be set " tombstone" style and not laid flat.  Wait until the adhesive has set up according to the manufacturers instructions before removing Spacers with Spacer Removal Tool.

Tile Cutters and Wet Saws
To save time and to make large and multiple cuts, use a Tile Cutter. For larger rooms, use a Wet Saw. Follow the directions provided with the cutter or Wet Saw for proper results.
 

1. Using a ruler, make a China Maker line on the glazed surface of the tile to be cut.

2. Use the ruler to guide the cutter by placing it along the marked line.  Hold the tile cutter firmly with the scoring wheel against the ruler.

3. Slowly make a single straight score, by drawing the cutter along the ruler towards yourself.  Make sure the score runs the whole length of the cut without gaps and that the cutting wheel runs off the edge of the tile.  Use the tile pliers wheel to break the glaze on the tile.

4. Place the tile, scored side up between the jaws of the tile cutter, with the score line in the center of the jaws.

5. Squeeze the handles together firmly.  The tile should break cleanly along the scored line.

Rod Saw/Hacksaw/Saber Saw
These cutting tools are used to cut out half circles for faucets,
pipe outlets and toilet bowls.

Let the adhesive or thinnest cure per manufacturers instructions before you begin grouting (Usually 24 to 48 hours).  Mix the grout according to package instructions with a mixer.  Remember to remove all spacers.

1. Use a grout bag to spread grout directly into the joint or a grout Float to spread grout diagonally across the face of the tile, and thus into the joints.  Apply grout to only 25 square feet at a time.  You can use an old toothbrush handle for narrow joints and corners.  Be sure that the grout is forced into the joints so that they are completely filled with no voids or air pockets.
    

2. Wipe off the excess grout by drawing the edge of a Float, holding it at a 45° angle, diagonally across.  Remove as much excess grout as possible.
    

3. Wait 15-20 minutes before cleaning.  Soak the Grout Sponge in clear water and wring it out thoroughly.  Wipe the tiles diagonally, removing any remaining grout and rinsing the Sponge often.  Repeat until the joint are smooth and level with the tiles, and the tiles are as clean as you can get them with the Sponge.  For best results, repeat this step the next two days to allow the grout to cure slower and stronger.  *Be sure not to over wet the sponge when cleaning the grout, it will pull color out of grout causing uneven coloration.
    

4. After the remaining grout has dried to a haze, polish it off with a soft cloth or Cheesecloth following manufacturers direction.  *Caution:  Keep water away from newly tiled surfaces for at least 48 hours.

Sealing

Seal grout lines, after it has cured per manufacturers recommendation, to keep grout looking its best, protect your grout and prevent liquid absorption, which may cause grout staining.

 
Information provided by Q.E.P.